Or, “A Tale of Two Salads,” with apologies to Charles Dickens. (Yes, technically it’s two tales of one salad each, but that didn’t sound as nice.)
Salad #1:
We went out for dinner tonight to The Cheesecake Factory, a restaurant that I have been to about half a dozen times in my life. Every single time I have ordered the Chinese Chicken Salad, simply because that was what I ordered my first time there and I liked it. Also, I’ve been too lazy to read the rest of their prodigious menu. Tonight was no different, although when we were seated I vowed that next time I would try something different.
It’s pretty much the same green salad with chicken and mandarin oranges that you can get in any number of chain or even fast food restaurants. Sure, sometimes the ingredients vary a little depending on the place — cilantro, bean sprouts, red cabbage, sliced almonds, scallions, peanut sauce, and crispy tortilla strips (!) have all made appearances in variations I’ve tried at different restaurants. The Cheesecake Factory’s version comes piled high with puffed cellophane noodles. But they all have something in common: a leafy green base that, to my knowledge, probably isn’t very Chinese, Asian, Oriental (grrr), or whatever ethnic adjective that the menu claims it is.
But I usually order them anyway, even though I feel oddly uncomfortable doing so. Maybe it’s because I suspect that these salads are about as authentically Asian as white actors in yellowface. Or maybe I’m afraid of perpetuating some kind of stereotype about Asian people preferring “Asian”-ish salads over non-Asian salads. But I generally do like them over non-Asian salads, so does that make me a walking stereotype?
I hope not. I hope I’m just someone who likes little oranges in her salad.
Salad #2:
A few years ago I went on a business trip to Japan, and a group of female Japanese employees took me out to lunch. They asked me where I wanted to go, and I responded that wherever they liked best was fine with me. I was ready for donkatsu, teriyaki, soba, udon, or any of the other Japanese delicacies that I had heard of, if not tried. I was even steeling myself for something more, ah, unusual — not any specific dish per se, just something that my imagination was having fun concocting for me.
Instead, they took me for my first ever visit to a Sizzler.
Once seated, the most senior person in the office decided that we would all get the salad bar. At first I had been disappointed at the American-ness of our lunch destination* — I wanted culture, dammit! Authenticity! But since I was feeling pretty nervous on this trip already, I decided that the salad bar was the reassuringly familiar anchor that I needed. I quickly fell into making the same salad that I usually make at salad bars – leafy greens, sliced cucumbers, shredded carrots, sweet red peppers, and crispy chow mein noodles. But when we returned to our seats, it was clear that I had constructed an “American” salad. Everyone else had some kind of version of what looked like a three-bean salad in front of them, with nary a torn piece of iceberg lettuce to be seen aside from my plateful.
In a way it was funny, because I had been wondering if anyone would think that I was Japanese. I figured that as long as no one heard me say anything, a woman with Asian features out to lunch with six or seven Japanese women wouldn’t seem out of the ordinary. As it turned out, you only needed to look at our plates to spot the impostor.
*I am actually very touched that they wanted to take me somewhere that would be, uh, familiar to me.
7 responses so far ↓
Jennifer // January 10, 2008 at 12:58 am |
You know, I also have ordered the Chinese Chicken salad at Cheesecake factory and it is good and I do like little mandarin oranges in my salad (and I’ve wondered why they are called mandarin oranges…) but I don’t feel uncomfortable because I think Chinese Chicken salad is to Chinese culture what French fries are to French culture. Not much resemblance (although I guess this may not be the best analogy because pommes frites are very popular and very “French” when you order them as such in France). I guess all I mean to say is that it is so far from resembling any kind of Chinese salad–it’s another instance of benign orientalizing–like taco salads. I order them but I also know they have no real resemblance to Mexican cuisine–and same with pizza. All part of of the comfortable “safe” ethnicizing that goes on in chain food. Although I do admit that I think the Cheesecake facotry does a mean Chinese Chicken salad.
Sang-Shil // January 11, 2008 at 11:17 am |
Thanks for your thoughts on this — I guess now my question is, what kinds of orientalizing are “benign” or “safe”? As long as it’s not people, especially women, who are being orientalized, is it harmless? Where should we draw the line?
I’ve seen Asian-ish fonts, ingredients, adjectives, so-called values, etc. be used to sell things like beauty products, Zen rock waterfalls, and t-shirts. I confess that half the time I want to run out and buy them, because the part of me that grew up white actually thinks they might be authentic, and that consuming them would somehow make me more “Asian”. But the other half of me wonders if it’s more about appropriation and commodification of cultures that receives no benefit in return. I’d be interested in your thoughts on this; do you think I’m being oversensitive?
Jennifer // January 11, 2008 at 10:45 pm |
Funny that you should write about this–even as I was leaving the comment about “benign Orientalizing” I wondered what that meant. But being a bit lazy (and in a hurry) I decided not to worry about qualifying it.
I don’t want to cop out of answering, but it’s late and I did a platelet donation and my head is fuzzy, so I’m going to think on this and perhaps even post about it on my own blog, of course I”d love to have other people’s take on this because I do wonder if there is a “benign” orientalizing…I guess if there was, then I’d count the Chinese Chicken Salad at the Cheesecake factory. Maybe food is the realm?
Sang-Shil // January 13, 2008 at 2:28 pm |
Maybe food is a relatively “safe” realm, as long as people know that what they’re eating is an Americanized version of something Asian (or an Asian-ish version of something American).
WordSpy.com defines the term “food court multiculturalism” as “the practice of enjoying the attributes of several cultures other than one’s own in a superficial and temporary way.” I wonder if this similar to the Chinese chicken salad, although the Cheesecake Factory version costs about 3 times as much as anything at a food court. (Of course it tastes a lot better, too!)
Lynn // January 31, 2008 at 10:48 am |
This was too funny to stumble across today — I was looking for a dish to take to a Chinese New Year celebration on my local Asian market’s website. This month’s recipe is a Chinese Chicken Salad made with iceburg lettuce — think I’ll go with the Chinese broccoli in oyster sauce instead.
Sang-Shil // January 31, 2008 at 1:11 pm |
Yeah, the broccoli might be more authentic… but I’m sure both dishes taste great!
I’m going to another restaurant tonight that makes an “Asian” chicken salad, and I’m looking forward to it already…
The many faces of “Orientalism” at Anti-Racist Parent - for parents committed to raising children with an anti-racist outlook // April 15, 2009 at 8:37 am |
[...] Chicken Salad. Again, “Land of the Not-So-Calm” has written a post called “Asian Salad vs. Salad in Asia” in which she discusses ordering the Chinese chicken salad at The Cheesecake Factory. In the [...]